Jiufen

• Highlights
• Perfect day
• Map & getting there
• Where to stay
• When to go
• Mistakes to avoid
• Quick answers

Gold, mist and a thousand lanterns

Jiufen means "nine portions", after an early village of nine families. Gold was found in the area in the 1890s, and the town boomed, especially during the Japanese era. The mine closed in 1971 and the town declined.

The movies brought it back. Hou Hsiao-hsien's 1989 film A City of Sadness was set here, and its success started a tourist boom in the early 1990s. Many visitors also compare the town to the bathhouse town in the film Spirited Away. The film's director, Hayao Miyazaki, has denied that Jiufen was his model, but the comparison stuck.

The heart of the town is Jiufen Old Street, a narrow, winding alley of shops, tea houses and food stalls. After dark, red lanterns light up the hillside, with the sea beyond.

What to see

• Jiufen Old Street: a narrow, winding alley of food stalls, shops and tea houses. Go early or late to avoid the worst crowds.
• The tea houses: traditional tea houses such as the A-Mei Tea House, with views over the hills and sea. Many close in the early evening, often around 19:00 to 20:00.
• Shengping Theater: a restored old theatre, part of the town's mining and film history.
• The lanterns at dusk: the red lanterns come on at twilight, the best time for photos.
• Views over the coast: on a clear day you can see the sea and the hills beyond the town.

Many shops and tea houses close in the early evening, so check the times if you want a table.

A perfect afternoon and evening

Jiufen is at its best late in the day. Arrive in the afternoon, eat early, and stay for the lanterns.

1. Early afternoonTake the bus from Taipei, or the train to Ruifang and a bus from there. See below for the options.
2. Mid afternoonWalk the Old Street before the evening crowds, and try the snacks.
3. Late afternoonGet a seat at a tea house before it closes.
4. DuskWatch the lanterns come on and take your photos.
5. EveningHead back before the last buses fill up, because queues can be long.

Where it is and how to get there

Jiufen is in northern Taiwan, in the hills above the coast, east of Taipei.

• By direct bus Buses such as the 1062 run from Taipei (near Zhongxiao Fuxing MRT) to Jiufen and are often the easiest option. Queues can be long in the late afternoon and evening.
• By train and bus Take the train to Ruifang station, then a bus to Jiufen Old Street. The bus costs about NT$15 and takes around 15 to 20 minutes. The whole trip takes roughly 1 to 1.5 hours.
• By tour Day tours from Taipei often combine Jiufen with Shifen and the north-east coast, and some include hotel pickup.
• By taxi Taxis and private cars are possible, and taxis wait at Jiufen for the ride back.

Good to know: the roads are steep and narrow. One guide says drivers are no longer allowed to drop passengers at the main entrance of the Old Street (since 2025), so expect a 10 to 15 minute walk. Check the time of the last bus before you go.

Where to stay: Jiufen or Taipei?

When to go

• Spring March to May. Mild, but often misty and wet. Bring a rain jacket.
• Summer June to September. Hot and humid, with storms. Typhoons can disrupt travel, so check the forecast.
• Autumn October to November. Cooler and often drier, a good time for the hills and sea views.
• Winter December to February. Cool, wet and misty, but quieter on weekdays.

Our tips for Jiufen

• Go on a weekday. Weekends and holidays are packed.
• Arrive in the afternoon. You get the quieter streets first, then the lanterns at dusk.
• Bring a rain jacket. Mist and showers are common in the hills.
• Check the last bus. Queues build up in the evening.
• Wear comfortable shoes. The streets are steep and full of steps.

Don't make these mistakes

• Arriving late on a weekend. The queues for the bus and the Old Street can be long.
• Planning dinner after 20:00. Many tea houses and eateries close around then.
• Skipping the rain gear. Mist and showers are common.
• Expecting a quiet village. It is a busy tourist street, especially in the evening.
• Leaving the return trip to chance. Check the last bus or taxi before it gets late.

Quick answers

A note on prices: fees, opening hours and timetables change, and we update them every year. The details in this guide were checked in autumn 2026 and may be different by the time you travel, so please confirm them on the official website before you book.