Thailand's beaches, before the crowds found them
Picture the Thai islands twenty years ago: white sand, clear water, jungle behind the beach and hardly any buildings. Much of Koh Rong still looks like that, at a fraction of the price.
At night it gets even better. On dark nights the water glows with bioluminescent plankton, and every splash lights up.
But new roads and resorts have been arriving fast, so this version of Koh Rong won't be around forever.
Beaches worth the boat ride
- Long Beach (Sok San): kilometres of powder-white sand, often almost empty.
- Koh Touch: the island's village and main pier, with cheap food, beach bars and a backpacker buzz.
- Lonely Beach: remote, rustic and as quiet as the name says. Getting there is half the adventure.
- The glowing plankton: swim after dark, away from the lights, and watch the water sparkle around you.
- Koh Rong Samloem: the smaller sister island next door, with calm, turquoise Saracen Bay.
The perfect day on Koh Rong
Give it at least three nights. Island time is slow, and that's the point.
- MorningSwim before breakfast, when the water is glassy and the beach is empty.
- Late morningTake a boat taxi or a snorkel trip to a quieter beach.
- MiddayHide from the sun with a fruit shake and a hammock.
- SunsetLong Beach faces west, so it gets the big sunsets over the sea.
- After darkWade in somewhere dark and watch the plankton glow.
Where it is and how to get there
Koh Rong sits in the Gulf of Thailand, off Cambodia's south coast.
- By air Fly into Phnom Penh, or into Sihanoukville for a short ride to the port.
- By road Buses and minivans run from Phnom Penh to Sihanoukville in about 3 to 4 hours on the expressway.
- By ferry Fast ferries cross from Sihanoukville to Koh Touch in about 45 minutes, a few times a day. Some also stop at other beaches.
Getting around: there are few roads and no real public transport. Boat taxis and motorbike taxis link the beaches. Agree on the price before you set off.
Where to stay: Koh Touch or a quiet beach?
Koh Touch
The village by the main pier, with lots of cheap guesthouses, food and nightlife, and easy ferry access. It can be noisy.
Best for: backpackers and social travellersLong Beach and Sok San
Quiet, spread-out resorts on miles of empty sand. Fewer restaurants, more stars.
Best for: couples and switching offWhen to go
- Dry November to April. Calm seas and sunshine. December to February is the most comfortable.
- Hot March to May. Very hot, and still mostly dry.
- Wet May to October. Heavy afternoon rain, rougher seas and some cancelled ferries. Cheaper and emptier.
Our tips for Koh Rong
- Bring US dollars in cash. Dollars are used everywhere in Cambodia, and ATMs on the island are few and unreliable.
- Pick your beach before you book. Getting between beaches can mean a boat taxi or a rough ride. Stay where you want to spend your days.
- Check the moon for plankton. The glow is best on dark, moonless nights. A full moon washes it out.
- Leave a buffer day for the ferry. Boats can be cancelled in rough weather. Don't fly out the same day you leave the island.
- Go soon. New roads and resorts are coming. The quiet, barefoot Koh Rong is changing year by year.
Don't make these mistakes
- Riding a scooter on the island roads. They're rough and dusty, and crashes are common. Take a boat taxi if in doubt.
- Forgetting insect repellent. Sandflies and mosquitoes come out at dusk on some beaches.
- Doing it as a day trip. By the time you've done the ferry twice, you've barely seen the beach.
- Swimming alone after a few drinks. Plankton swims are magical, but go with a friend and stay where you can stand.
- Leaving rubbish on the beach. There's little waste collection on the island. Take it back with you.
Quick answers
Koh Rong or Koh Rong Samloem?
Koh Rong is bigger, with more choice and some nightlife. Samloem is smaller, calmer and more chilled. Both are worth it.
Are there ATMs?
Very few, and they're unreliable. Bring enough US dollars from the mainland.
Is Koh Rong safe?
Generally, yes. Watch out for rough roads, strong sun and swimming alone at night.
How many days should I stay?
Three nights at least. Five lets you add Koh Rong Samloem.
A note on prices: fees, opening hours and timetables change, and we update them every year. The details in this guide were checked in autumn 2026 and may be different by the time you travel, so please confirm them on the official website before you book.










